We depart towards the Gorringe Ridge
Sunday, June 12th, 2005 - Inés García -
Two days went by since the expedition arrived at the Portuguese city of Lagos. During this time, we have secured provisions to continue the crossing: food, fuel, ship parts, etc. Xavier Pastor, who directed operations since the month of February has gone ashore, as did Nano and José Corral. Juan Pablo, Dana and Ines will proceed along with us, throughout the crossing towards the underwater Gorringe Ridge.

We got up at eight o'clock this morning and after a half hour wait for the Channel drawbridge to be open, we were on our way. Afterwards, at the messroom a meeting took place among Ricardo Aguilar, Oceana Director of Research, and the divers who will document our next destination. They are: Dana Harlow, Juan Carlos Calvín, Juan Pablo Camblor and Mar Mas. They discussed details on how dives will be done in the next three days. Although it is always the case that safety measures are followed, this is more so in this case: we must take extreme precautions, because we plan very deep dives ( 30-40 m ), to take place in remote areas, far from land. Every diver will carry a line to hold on to the anchor line and a dive maker to indicate the diver location once dive is completed. A safety protocol has also been established to act with efficiency in the eventuality of a diving accident. There is an oxygen device onboard if an emergendy situation should arise.
En route to Gorringe Ridge we have met with 20 knot prow winds, which kept us from navigating with sails, and are going to delay a little our arrival at the underwater mountain Gettysburg. Until now, only a few birds have come to visit us: a young gannet ( Sula bassana ), a couple of Manx shearwaters ( Puffinus puffinus ) and almost at the end of the day, a great skua ( Catharacta skua ). Tomorrow we hope to find more marine life around the mountains, as they are considered to be truly authentic oasis in the middle of the ocean.
Gorringe ridge is a group of mountains of significant ecological importance. They are located at 150 miles from the Protuguese coast. Settled on marine beds over 3,000 meters deep and two of its peaks ( Gettysburg and Ormonde ) they reach barely 20-30 meters from the surface. Underwater mountains hold great importance for marine ecosystems. Great diversity of species can be found there, including endemic species that originate changes in marine currents, and many migratory animals make a pause in their journey to feed in the surronding area. We are all excited about the opportunity to dive and document an ecosystem as unknownt as this is.
Getting ready for work on the Gorringe Ridge
Monday, June 13th, 2005 - Inés García -

After 24 hours of navigation since we left the port of Lagos and proceeding on southwest direction, we have arrived at Gorringe. The crew prepares an anchor buoy to mark the place, which also serves divers as a guide when they sumerge. Finding an adequate spot to anchor has not been easy. Using the Ranger's sonic instruments, the captain has selected several spots within a 40-50 meter diameter, down to a depth of 30 meters. Bibi, the sailor from Cambados, organizes the auxiliary boat she will use to transport the four divers, the filming gear and a torpedo. The torpedo is a submergible device equipped with an electric motor and a propeller, and it is used by divers to go for long distances underwater, without much effort. At first dive, only a pair of divers will go down, these will be Mar and Dana Harlow. In addition to doing recognizance of the spot, they make sure the torpedo works well and they take a photographic camera along with them.

It is estimated there are around 100,000 underwater mountains in the world, 800 of them are located in the North Atlantic Ocean. These areas of shallow waters provide particular characteristics both for oceanic movement and for marine fauna. The emergence of nutrients around the summit is a frequent occurrence, phenomena linked to ascending whirlpools. As these areas provide a resting place in the middle of the ocean, numerous species - some of them commercially in demand - gather here to reproduce and feed. Fish of slow growth characteristics and great longevity are commonly found here; for instance, the orange roughy ( Hoplosthetus atlanticus ) and the black scabbardfish ( Aphanopus carbo ). Therefore, these are very vulnerable species to abusive fishing methods.

Gorringe Ridge is a group of underwater mountains of volcanic origin. Great part of their surface is formed by hard substrate where filter-feeding invertebrates ans species associated to algae forests proliferate. As soon as the divers resurface, they tell us of their experience. There is a strong current and the scenery is covered mostly by brown algae ( Zonaria tournefortii ) and Laminaria sp. The most abundant species sighted, were grey triggerfish ( Balistes carolinensis - later changed to Balistes capriscus ), almaco jack ( Seriola rivoliana ), Mediterranean rainbow wrasse ( Coris julis ), swallowtail seaperch ( Anthias anthias ), John Dory ( Zeus faber ) and Mediterranean slipper lobster ( Scyllarides latus ).
These mountains belong to the Economic Exclusive Zone of Portugal, there is a proposal to have this area declared Conservation Special Area ( CSA ) and includa them in Red Natura 2000.
We spent the night adrift on the summits of Gorringe. We will see what tomorrow brings.
Four dives
Tuesday, June 14th, 2005 - Inés García -

This was another day spent in the middle of the ocean. Upon awakening on the Ranger, the sea was ever so still. After we spent the night adrift, we had only shifted 4 miles, which, in the opinion of the captain and sailors, is not too much.
Today, the diving team planned to do four dives. They have decided to dive in pairs and separately, in order to better control the situation. Mar was feeling discomfort in one ear, but she is better now. Everything seems to indicate this is going to be a very nice day.

Meanwhile, Bibi, also known as pangueira, because she operates the panga or auxiliary boat like a pro, has taken the divers to the place of diving. We had time for many other activities on the ship. For instance, we carried out all maintenance work at the Ranger. We cleaned the windows at the bridge, made brackets to fold the sprit sails, changed the compressor filters to recharge the diving tanks and prepared food. We also seized the opportunity to go for a swim in the sea. On the surface, we saw a big tunid and almaco jack fish that were with us along the way.
Indi, the cook at the Ranger, always finds time to observe marine birds. Since our arrival at the Gorringe Ridge, we have seen european storm-petrels ( Hydrobates pelagicus ), and one cory's shearwater ( Calonectris diomedea ). The european storm-petrels are smaller size marine birds of, black in color, with a white spot on the tail rump. It feeds on crustaceans and plankton. They nest on rocky coasts and islands.

The captain has given me permission to go along with Bibi on the auxiliary boat. As we arrived at the anchor buoy, again we were surrounded by about fifty european storm-petrels. On the surface of the sea, there was garbage, and remains of Blue bottle or Portuguese man-of-war jelly fish, and some type of mollusks. Since this observation, Ricardo Aguilar, Project Manager at Oceana and Juan Pablo Camblor, Zoea Director, have been commenting on this peculiar phenomena, such as the large gathering of Blue bottle or Portuguese man-o during the Ranger campaign in the Azores, or the great congregation of jelly fish in the Mar Menor during the summer months. Ricardo explained that the ocean trophic chain is transforming and that when species at the top levels of the food chain decrease in numbers, invertebrates go through rapid reproductive cycles. Changes in temperature can also influence this process as well sewage water and water treatment substance discharges, etc.
The divers are back, they have gone down from the bottom to the top of Gettysburg. They told us that the surface of the mountain is not uniform, but full of fissures, nooks and irregularities, which provide for a wide variety of habitats for marine life. As for fish, they observed the same species as yesterday ( almaco jack, Mediterranean rainbow wrasse, etc ). They have also filmed a spotted torpedo and found an area with gorgonian ( corals ) of small sizes.
We listened to classical music at the messroom and Nuño, the captain plays bagpipes on the prow. Meanwhile, we remember all those who have been on the Ranger and made this project possible.
High risk diving and bound to Ormonde
Wednesday, June 15th, 2005 - Inés García -
A new day of high risk diving; the dives reach depths below 40 meters. The closest hyperbaric chamber is in Lisbon, 500 km away. Conventional helicopters will not be able to reach this place and make it back to land.

All essential safety measures are taken; there is nothing to be concerned about.
Last night, we had a blues concert at the Ranger, by Danielle, Dana ans Indi. Meanwhile, we sailed twenty miles towards the Gorringe Ridge; to the mount of Ormonde.
This time it is harder for us to find the mountain summit. We find that all the available marine charts are wronhg and that none of the references we had were correct. At last, after modnight, we find the spot: at 32 meters deep in the most elevated area.
Next morning we awoke to a tranquil sea and sky. Soon after the first team of divers went down, those of us left onboard were visited by an ocean sunfish ( Mola mola ) measuring over one and a half meters long.

Juan Carlos Calvín, biologist and underwater photographer explained to us how the submarine scene has changed. It is more thriving than Gettysburg, although at first sight, the predominant species are the same; the laminaria species measure up to four meters.
Brown algaes ( Laminaria ochroleuca ) are still found at Ormonde, but the presence of furbellows ( Saccorhiza polyschides ) also becomes apparent. These two kelp species appear to be great trees towering over a blanket of brown and red algae, including Dtciopterys sp. and Zonaria tournefortii. Everywhere we find frequent schools of Almaco jack ( Seriola rivoliana ) and clouds of Mediterranean rainbow wrasse ( Coris julis ). Our attention is intensely focused on the way spotted torpedoes ( Torpedo marmorata ) huddle up together, snoozing on each other.
By the end of the day, we look at the images we have captured and we prepare to spend the night adrift. We know after tomorrow's last dive, we must say goodbye to the submarine mountains.
Return to Lagos
Thrusday, June 16th, 2005 - Inés García -

We cannot always accomplish what we plan. This morning, we have bad weather, winds of 30 knots and 2 meters waves. Plans have been cancelled for the last dives to the Ormonde mount, a part of the underwater mountain range Gorringe Ridge.
Despite this, results from this phase of the Ranger's expedition, begun in January 2005 in waters of the Pacific, have been satisfactory. At the Gorringe Ridge carried out 12 dives ( each couple of divers went down 6 times ) with the purpose of documenting marine life and the state of this incredibly remarkable ecosystem, located about 150 miles from the nearest coast. It is beyond remarkable; we are aware that some of underwater scenes we have set eyes on down here have not been seen by human eyes before. We know we are making history. Research on these marine mounts and on mountain ranges around the world are very scarce.

After loading the boat on the stern of the Ranger, with some effort, as the waves did not make the work easy, we have begun our return to Lagos ( Portugal ). Despite the bad weather, Ricardo Aguilar sighted a loggerhead ( Caretta caretta ) measuring over half a meter carapace length.
Climate condition improved as the day went by. The captain has decided to raise all sails of the Ranger. Once the ship was leveled off, we reached 8 knots. At this speed, taking a few naps, enjoying a good dinner and lintening to a bagpipe concert offered by captain Nuño, the crossing will seem very short.
Once we make port, the crew will leave everything ready for the crissing towards the Strait of Gibraltar and the Sea of Alboran en route to our final destination, Palma de Mallorca. A bittersweet feeling is rising among the crew. We know the end of the expedition is near. We are looking forwards to arriving at port, but our heads are filled with images piled up in our memory, of the more than five months of sailing that will be hard to forget. Now we must go through the last effort...

A DOCUMENTARY ABOUT ILLEGAL DRIFTNETS
Oceana in the documentary made by the producer EarthOcean about illegal drifnetters in the Mediterranean Sea. The video includes an interview with Xavier Pastor, Oceana’s Director for Europe, and also images of illegal driftnetters recorded during the expeditions on board the catamaran Oceana Ranger. Driftnets are banned since 2002 because they represent a major threat for the conservation of endangered species such as marine turtles and cetaceans.
OCEANA's REPORTS