1 October 2006
Menorca canyon
Ricardo Aguilar


ROV and Ranger in Menorca
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

At last, we reach this immense canyon south of Menorca. The first dive takes us to a depth of 235 meters, a record for us. As soon as we reach the bottom, we see an anglerfish (Lophius sp.) camouflaged amongst the fine sediment. Soon, the walls of the canyon begin to rise quickly and we come across different sea floors; some covered with large quantities of detritus and others with rocks. Some of these rocks are quite large and are spotted with sponges and some gorgonias. The first we see is a Callogorgia verticillata, and later we spot some Isidella elongata and other smaller ones that seem to be Bebryce mollis, although we need to confirm this with the recorded images. But the most spectacular by far are the yellow tree corals (Dendrophyllia cornigera) reaching incredible dimensions. On the tallest rock, we see concentrations of yellow gorgonias (Eunicella cavolini) and some marine sponges (Axinella sp.) and small corals.

During the second dive, we are not able to descend so much, to 212 meters, and the currents are quite strong. The scenery is similar to the one we just saw. More corals and gorgonias. Now there are many more fish than there were in the morning, including swallowtail seaperches (Anthias athias), combers (Serranus cabrilla), scorionfish (Scorpaena scrofa) and a John Dory (Zeus faber). We see very little algae, although we have been able to see some dispersed laminaria, such as the Phyllariopsis brevipes.

As soon as we reached the top of the canyon, at around 85-90 meters depth, we see a maerl bed, and further on some rocks and calcareous red algae of the Peyssonelia and Mesophyllum species, and later a sandy area with large quantities of sea urchins, especially the Spatangus purpureus.

The day started off well, but the weather steadily become worse. I am afraid we will have to finish our work for today and seek shelter near the coast.

30 September 2006
Mahon
Ricardo Aguilar


We will make our last stop in port to load supplies and rest a little, before finishing this year's campaign. At night, we have been carrying out bathymetric measurements of the Cañon de Menorca canyon, where we will be working during the next few days. The profile given by the computer looks very promising. From a platform of 80-90 meters, a pronounced drop begins and reaches over 1,000 meters depth. If the currents and the sea remain calm, the dives here will prove to be very interesting.

At sunrise, we enter the port of Mahon. We will refuel and then find a slip. We will dedicate the day to buying food and cleaning supplies that we need, and preparing for the next few days.

29 September 2006
Menorca Canal
Ricardo Aguilar


The area of the canal of Menorca has a platform of at least 100 meters depth that joins the islands of Mallorca and Menorca, but in the southern section of its slope, it falls to great depths, habouring many extremely interesting ecosystems.

We are going take samples in different areas and depths here in order to find out which species inhabit these ecosystems. We will begin in front of Cala Ratjada cove and Cap de Pera and will slowly head toward the east.

ROV and Ranger
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

During the first dive, the robot reached 75 meters depth and continued to descend just under 100 meters. In the afternoon, we headed toward the central area of the canal and descended to 240 meters. The last dive of the day was carried out in front of Son Saura where we worked between 80 and 120 meters depth.

Both ends of the canal are made up of maerl, although it is more dense and found in an area of sandy ripples in the part closest to Mallorca, making the concentrations of algae form parallel lines. At the other end, we see some large and branched-out pink sea fans (Eunicella verrucosa), tube anemones (Cerianthus membranaceus), blotched picarels (Spicara flexuosa) and mollusc eggs, and not too far away, the mollusc that spawned them: a huge nudibranch (Tethys fimbria), measuring approximately 30 centimetres.

At approximately 135 meters, we find the brown algae Laminaria rodriguezii, a species that is endemic to this sea and included in the Mediterranean Sea's blacklist. And when we reach 200 meters, on a fine sediment floor, we see abundant quantities of triglids, dragonets (Calliionymus sp.), octopus (Eledone sp.), and molluscs, as well as two of the most common species of sharks, the small-spotted catshark (Scyliorhinus canícula) and the nurse hound (S. stellaris), apparently born this year because they barely measure 20-30 centimetres in length.

28 September 2006
East of Cabrera
Ricardo Aguilar


ROV
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

Today, we will take samples with the ROV in two areas within the park. One in the southeast and another in the north. The sea floors are sandy with large concentrations of sand urchins, especially Spatangus purpureus.

In other areas, we spot large concentrations of rhizomes and dead Posidonia leaves which have been transported to depths of 80-90 meters. The habitat they create is used by scorpionfish (Scorpaena scrofa) and brown combers (Serranus hepatus). But we also spot some dead man's hand finger coral (Alcyonium acaule), anemones (Andresia parthenopea) and many hermit crabs (Pagurus prideaux) wearing cloak anemones (Adamsia carciniopados) and others that have chosen Suberites sponges for houses instead of a shell. As far as we can see, it must be mating season, because many of the male hermit crabs were holding on firmly to the females with their claws.

Other crabs that are quite commonly found here are the Inachus species. Another species that is also probably quite common here, although we have not seen too many, is the pebble crab (Ilia nucleus), but given they are so small, many of them probably went unseen by us.

The echinoderms are common here, especially the holothurians (Stichopus regalis and Holothuria tubulosa) and even the pencil urchins (Stylocidaris affinis), although we are surprised to find a long-spined urchin (Centrostephanus longispinus) because, apart from the fact that it is endangered, it is not frequently found in sandy areas.

Toward the end of the day, as night was approaching, a brown ray appeared (Raja miraletus) and as it swam up the water column, we were thrilled to see a giant salp (Salpa maxima) "dancing" in front of the robot's lights.

Today, as we were working underwater, we knew our co-workers on land were fighting an important battle which had been going on for weeks in order to stop the decline in the shark population, steadily declining for the past decades. In Strasbourg, the European Parliament was debating a proposal defended by two Spanish Euro MPs (one from the PSOE and the other from the PP, left and right-wing political parties respectively) in order to weaken, even more so if possible, European legislation regarding sharks and in favour of shark fin commerce. Luckily, this incomprehensible and dangerous proposal was rejected and, as soon as we were informed, we celebrated the victory on board.

27 September 2006
Cabrera
Ricardo Aguilar


Cabrera
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

Today, we will enter the Cabrera National Park. We have a meeting early this morning with the park rangers in order to exchange information and decide in which areas we are going to work. They were extremely helpful. Many of them have spent various years here and they are very fond of this area. Those of us who have been able to see Cabrera's evolution during the last 25 years feel very happy. The region that was bombarded by military manoeuvres carried out in this archipelago during the decade of the eighties has turned into one of the most beautiful protected natural areas in the Mediterranean.

The divers submerge themselves in Cala Galiana cove in order to observe the state of the area, continuously open to diving activities since it was declared a protected region. It is in pretty good shape and it is not uncommon to see many pen shells (Pinna nobilis) among the prairies of Posidonia oceanica here, as well as a large number of grouper (Epinephelus marginatus), seabreams (Diplodus vulgaris), white breams (Diplodus sargus), brown meagre (Sciaena umbra) and other species.

Although not one day goes by since we have been in the Balearic Islands that we don't find clouds of luminous jellyfish (Pelagia noctiluca), and the quantity we have seen in this cove has astonished us.

Later, we begin to work with the submarine robot. We head toward the deepest area in the park in order to see the sea floors. This area is found toward the southeast and is made up of mud and some dispersed rocks. We spot various sea pens (Pennatula rubra, Virgularia mirabilis), large concentrations of brittlestars (Ophiopsila aranea) and a few feather stars (Antedon mediterranea). On each small rock, we spot a comber (Serranus cabrilla) and various spoon worms (Bonellia viridis). We also spot a few species of large briozoans commonly known as Venus' lace or Neptune's lace (Sertella septentrionalis).

This area is also rich in flat fish and hake, which we always find half buried in the substrate.

In the afternoon, the wind picks up and the currents become very strong, making it quite difficult to work. In the end, we decide to finish for the day and head toward the port of Cabrera.

26 September 2006
West of cabrera
Ricardo Aguilar


Lophocladia lallemandi and Sarcotragus Sp.
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

In the end, we had to take shelter for the night in Porto Petro. In the morning, the storm had subsided and we set sail toward Cabrera.

We did 2 transections with the robot in the limits of the Cabrera National Park in order to find out the state of the sea floors in the areas that are not included within the protected area: one in front of Cap Picamoscas and the other southeast of Punta Ancino.

In both cases, the sea floors were made up of very fine sediment, with many sea pens, especially Funiculina cuadrangularis and Pennatula rubra. There were also many dead man's finger corals (Alcyonium acaule y Paralcyonium spinulosum). This area also proved to be rich in various species of flat fish, such as sole and plaice, but also the strange armoured searobin (Peristedion cataphractum), its rostrum and its long chins giving it an unusual appearance.

Cabrera
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

Once in a while, we spot a small rocky area where swallowtail seaperches (Anthias anthias) can be found, as well as combers (Serranus cabrilla), spoon worms (Bonellia viridis) and various sponges. These rocky areas are more common in the south, where we have also found branching corals (Dendrophyllia cornigera) and some small gorgonias that seemed to us to be of the Placogorgia species. There is another species we have not yet identified.

25 September 2006
Emile Baudot
Ricardo Aguilar


The day does not start off well. The weather forecast is calling for force 3 and 4 winds from the southeast and southwest, but we also have a force 7 and 8 windstorm coming from the northeast. Obviously, we cannot continue our work and we must leave the area in search of shelter. We set sail toward Cabrera, but the direction of the wind indicates that the port there will not be comfortable either. So, we continue sailing in search of a sheltered cove on the southern coast of Mallorca.

Due to the impossibility of continuing our investigation of the sea floors, we decide to take advantage of the day and study the CTD results. All the samples we have taken, approximately a dozen, show similar parameters. The thermocline is located at approximately 30 meters with a temperature of around 24-25 degrees. From there, the temperature begins to decrease rapidly to between 13 and 14 degrees at 80 and 200 meters depth. There is practically no chlorophyll, which indicates the well-known lack of plankton in the Balearic Islands and which affords these waters a particular transparency, allowing the sunlight to penetrate to great depths.

24 September 2006
Emile Baudot
Ricardo Aguilar


After verifying the bathymetry of the area at night, we are ready to submerge the robot early the next morning. This area has a depth of 110 meters and, although the weather is still not as good as we would like, the conditions are not all that bad to begin working.

We find mixed sea floors of sand, maerl and rock. There are plenty of sponges on both the maerl bed and the rocks, while the sea floors rich in detritus attract various crustaceans and fish, such as hermit crabs (Dardanus and Pagurus), blue swimmer crabs (Portunus sp.), shamefaced crabs (Calappa granulata), streaked gurnards (Trigloporus lastoviza), blennies (Blennidae), European hake (Merluccius merluccius) and even a rockfish (Sebastes sp.).

Amongst the rocks, we also see some forkbeards (Phycis phycis), swallowtail seaperches (Anthias anthias), scorpionfish (Scorpaena scrofa), various squat lobsters (Munida rugosa), and a sponge crab (Dromia sp.). There are also large specimens of sea beards (Nemertesia ramosa). And, another great surprise: a scattering of uncommon species of gorgonias. Among them, we identify a Callogorgia verticillata that is usually found at greater depths and is present here at only 114 meters, some Muriceides lepida and various Spiminuricea klavereni. We also spot what looks like a northern gorgonia (Swiftia pallida), but we are not sure.

There are plenty of sponges including a large elephant ear sponge (Spongia agaricina), as well as remnants of fishing tackle such as fishing lines caught on the rocks.

23 September 2006
Auxias Marc
Ricardo Aguilar


The weather has not improved but we will continue our efforts. We will attempt to descend along the side of the submarine mountain, Auxias Marc. The work is not easy to carry out due to the strong currents, the swells and the wind, but after much hard work, we can finally discern the sea bottom. Again, we thought the day would be wasted, but as the hours go by, the weather conditions improve and the sea becomes calm; so we are able to continue our work more comfortably. Again we spot an extensive maerl bed. Toward one end, we see that the maerl bed begins to fragment, and again, we see the trawling marks.

Further on, we spot some rocks crowned with gorgonias. First, we see the pink sea-fans (Eunicella verrucosa), and then some small yellowish ones we try to identify. If we are not mistaken, they are Paramuricea macrospina. We will try to confirm this as soon as we review the recorded images.

It is interesting to see that the hermit crabs in this area all have cloak anemones (Adamsia carciniopados) attached to their shells

During the day, we have also used the CTD at various depths in order to profile the water column by measuring chlorophyll, oxygen, temperature, etc.

The weather outlook for the next few days is not favourable, so we decide to quickly set sail toward the Emile Baudot bank to see if we can capture some images before the weather conditions force us to seek shelter in a cove or port.

22 September 2006
Pitiusas
Ricardo Aguilar


We are between the islands of Conejeras and Bledas. We would like to take samples here while the weather gets better in the east. Just when we are about to begin to submerge the ROV, the wind suddenly changes and begins to blow from the west, making our shelter useless, so we must leave this area. Once again, we set sail toward the east coast of Formentera, where it seems the weather is rapidly improving.

In front of Cap Sa Creu, the conditions were perfect for working. We submerged the robot to approximately 35 meters and continued descending little by little. We reach a sandy area scattered with some rhodoliths, where we also find various purple heart sea-urchins. Soon, we spot a dense, well-conserved maerl bed. As we continue to descend, the maerl is still present, but as we reach 48 meters, we begin to see various marks on the sea floor left by the trawlers. The difference between the well-conserved area and the area damaged by the trawling is obvious, and since visibility is optimum, we can clearly see the whole extension of the affected area. When we reach 80 meters, we come upon a full trawling net caught on a large rock and, to our great surprise, behind that large rock (and protected by it), an extensive and incredibly beautiful field of branching sponges.

Just when we thought our day would be ruined, we have had one of the best dives we could hope for.

21 September 2006
Toward the Pitiusas
Ricardo Aguilar


Although the weather is not favourable, we decided to head toward Formentera in order to get a little closer to the marine mountains we want to document. The wind picks up and we must change our course and take refuge on the west coast of Ibiza. It is a rough night until we are able to find shelter.

20 September 2006
Palma de Mallorca
Ricardo Aguilar


We spent the day at port loading supplies on board and waiting for new crew members who will join us on this last part of the journey. We heard that the people from CRAM had also arrived in Palma with their sailboat, the "Vell Mari," so we went over to say hello and ended up have dinner with them, exchanging points of view and telling each other about the work we are carrying out in the Mediterranean. We were happy to spend some time with other colleagues.

19 September 2006
Cap Blanc
Ricardo Aguilar

Cotylorhiza tuberculata
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

We wake up early to find the impressive cliffs of Cap Blanc in front of us. There are vestiges of a large fossil coral reef here that existed in this area of the Mediterranean during the Miocene. More than 5 million years after, we are here to see how these sea floors have evolved. We will use the transection method in order to learn the distributions of the different ecosystems and species between the cliff and the depths of 100 meters. For this, we will work with both the divers in the shallower areas and the robot in the deeper areas.

Various landslides on the cliff have filled the sea floor with large blocks of rock which have become home to many species. Small solitary corals, sponges, algae, etc., the invasive algae Lophocladia lallemandi and further on, a prairie of Posidonia oceanica begins. At 35 meters depth, the sea floors change and spread out over the sand and detritous we see another invasive algae Caulerpa racemosa, spreading out extensively, while the local algae Arthrocladia villosa forms small colonies on the hillocks. Strangely enough, many white gorgonias (Eunicella singularis) can be found in this substrate. We also spot some Mediterranean madrepora reefs (Cladocora caespitosa), many of which are quite large. At 50 meters depth, the sand is becoming more and more fine. We can now see many types of red algae such as Osmundaria volubilis or Phyllopora crispa, and finally this area becomes home to the carrion-eaters and detrivores, especially star-fish and hermit crabs. It is not strange to find other species as well, such as scallops (Pecten jacobeus), brown combers (Serranus hepatus) and crabs belonging to the Inachus family. We also spot many bryozoans, some living atop the hermit crab's shells, and even a seven-armed star-fish (Luidia ciliaris). And something even stranger; a solitary rock coral, the Caryophillia smithi, on a sea floor such as this, made up of fine sediment. Each dive brings us some surprises.

18 September 2006
Cape Salinas
Ricardo Aguilar


Taking advantage of the fact that we are close to Mondragó Cove, the divers are going to film the sea bottom and, more importantly, the caves and rock walls. An unfamiliar yet highly important habitat for the coastal area can be found here, it is a "troittoir" or "ledge," known in the Balearic Islands as "tenasses." It is a mass of calcareous red algae (normally of the Litophyllum species, but sometimes also Neogoniolithon) which forms a small ledge just where the waves break, making an immensely interesting biological community.

The majority of the trottoirs we have seen before were quite discoloured on the top, but this one is bright burgundy red. We were not disappointed by this area, apart from being incredibly beautiful, the fauna and associated flora are quite important. The structure is colonised by a multitude of sponges, corals, bryozoans, hydrozoans and molluscs. And many other species, apart from these. On the underside of the trottoir there are more concentrations red algae, such as the Corallina elongata and the Galaxaura oblongata. It is a true spectacle to see.

We will work with the robot in the afternoon. This time we will visit sea floors at greater depths, more than 100 meters.

The first thing we find is a detritious bottom and then the sediment begins to thin out until it becomes almost muddy. In some areas, there is a large concentration of hundreds of Leptometra phalangium crinoids. They form a veritable "forest" where all the animals are placed facing the currents with their arms outstretched in order to capture the plankton that floats in the water. Amongst these, we spot a few red lance-urchins (Stylocidaris affinis) and tube anemones (Cerianthus sp.).

Surprise! we find an area of tree corals (Dendrophyllia cornigera) at approximately 140 meters depth. The specimens we see are large and spectacularly shaped. The yellow-coloured polyps are bright and vivid.

Night is falling and we decide to finish our work, but before we do, we spot some catsharks (Scyliorhinus canicula) and a thornback ray (Raja clavata) probably getting ready to begin its nightly rounds.

17 September 2006
In front of Cala Mitjana
Ricardo Aguilar


Echinaster sepositus
© OCEANA / Iñaki Relanzón

At night, the wind picks up and, although we could have kept sailing until we reached our destination, the rough seas would have prevented us from carrying out our work anyway. So, in order to take advantage, we have decided to change our plans a little and do some diving in the south-eastern part of Mallorca, where we will be sheltered from the north-easterly winds that are powerfully blowing and we will have more of a chance of success.

In the morning, we begin by submerging the robot to 40 meters depth, and then continue to submerge it to approximately 100 meters. The first section is an area that is partially covered by green, brown and red algae, and a few specimens of Colpomenia sinuosa. Not far off, we begin to see a few small rhodolites of calcareous red algae, the typical components of maerl beds. They are Lithothamnion valens and Phymatolithon calcareum, but we frequently spot others belonging to the Peyssonellia family. Amongst the algae we can see various different types of sea-urchins: Brissus unicolor, Spatangus purpureus and Echinocardium cardatum.

Amongst the maerl beds, we also spot many crustaceans of all types, especially the crabs belonging to the spider crab family and the Inachus genus. At more than 60 meters, we can still see the maerl bed spread over the sandy bottom, where it is quite common to see the daisy anemone (Cereus pedunculatus). Once in a while, we come face to face with the deep scars left by the trawlers that fish in this area.

The weather has not been good, but at least we have taken advantage of the day. We will spend the night in a nearby cove so we can continue our work at dawn.

16 September 2006
Palma de Mallorca - We load the ROV
Ricardo Aguilar


After arriving at Palma de Mallorca to load supplies and make some changes in the crew, we being to prepare ourselves to receive the submarine robot (ROV) that we will use during the next few weeks. The day has been quite hectic; it is very difficult to find a slot in Palma these days and we need one that will permit the use of the crane to load the ROV and all the necessary material. In order to achieve this, we have had to tie up and untie the boat five times, occupying different slots as they became available thanks to the cooperation of their owners. The truth is that we greatly appreciate the help and collaboration of many people, especially the ferry boats at port that have helped us immensely with our work.

The day has been quite long. Not only do we have to load the robot and all the materials necessary for its operation, but we also have to prepare everything before setting sail: verifying that the engines work properly, that the cameras and computers are correctly connected, that the cables, generators and other gadgets are ready and working properly…

We finally finish at night. We have dinner and set sail toward our first destination, the Emile Baudot Bank, south of Mallorca.

13 September 2006

Punta Prima and the seamounts

Ricardo Aguilar

Punta Prima
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

Off the east coast of Formentera there are areas where we can find a combination of walls full of sponges, rocky zones and sandy areas with Posidonia oceanica. Here we can see bigscale scorpionfish (Scorpaena scrofa), cardinal fish (Apogon imberbis), peacock wrasse (Symphodus tinca) and red mullet (Mullus barbatus). There is also a wide range of sponges, with species from the genera of Tenacior, Crambe, Sarcotragus, Cacospongia, Chondrosia, Oscarella, etc. There are also anthozoa such as Parazoanthus axinellae and bryozoa such as Miriapora truncata.

In the afternoon we decide to visit a couple of small seamounts to map their bathymetry, as we will be coming to work here later with the robot submarine. The summit of one of them, Auxias Marc, comes up to 80 metres below the surface before dropping to depths of more than 400 metros. The other, Las Olivas, is even deeper.

bigscale scorpionfish (Scorpaena scrofa)
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

No sooner have we arrived at the second seamount than a group of eight bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus) appear to welcome us. Seamounts tend to congregate a huge range of fauna and, as we saw on the Seco de los Olivos seamount in Almeria, bottlenose dolphins are very frequent visitors.

Night falls, and we start sailing among thousands of purple jellyfish (Pelagia noctiluca). There are incredibly high numbers of them, and as the light disappears their bioluminescence becomes more and more evident.

12 September 2006

Es Vedra and Sa Bota

Ricardo Aguilar

Policyathus muellerae
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

The day starts off a little cloudy, but the sea is fairly calm. We head towards the south-west of Ibiza to document some coralligenous and rocky sea beds in this area. At Es Vedra we want to take a look at the state of the red gorgonians (Paramuricea clavata). On approaching the area, we admire the beauty of the two little islands and their steep cliffs where some Eleanor’s falcons are breeding (Falco eleonorae). We need to dive to below 35 metres to get a good look at the largest gorgonians. Because of the clarity of the water around the Balearic Islands, gorgonians tend to congregate below 35-40 metres as it is a species that prefers the shade.

Oculina patagonica and Lophocladia lallemandii
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

As far down as 30 metres, the water temperature is still very high (around 25 ºC), while further down the thermocline disappears and the temperature drops rapidly. Our diving session achieves its objective and we find the gorgonians. There is a very high concentration of colonies and they seem to be in a good state.

A little further to the north is the Bajo de Sa Bota. This little seamount has two very distinct sides: one that slopes gently and another which almost plunges down to a depth of 60-70 metres. The combination of rocky zone and sandy bottom gives rise to all kinds of fish. There is also a significant mass of the brown alga Dictyopteris membranacea and, on the walls, a lovely seascape of sponges and small colonial and solitary corals such as Caryophilla sp. and Policyathus muellerae. We’re in luck, and are able to see some examples of the threatened long-spined sea urchin (Centrostephanus longispinus).

Paramuricea clavata
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

 

Further away, to the west of Formentera, we can see a small tornado forming. In the afternoon it starts raining, developing into a heavy downpour with a lot of lightning. We’ve only had a few drops of rain all day, and now it seems as if the sky is dissolving.

11th September 2006

Els Freus Marine Reserve: Punta Gavina

Ricardo Aguilar

Cladocora caespitosa
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

A little bit of everything today: marine meadow, Cystoseira sp. forests, rocky walls and caves.

There is also a ‘fish cleaning station’ in this area. Instead of yesterday’s shrimps, the species in charge of the task today is the tort (Symphodus melanocercus), and its customers are mainly peacock wrasse (Symphodus tinca) and damselfish (Chromis chromis), which, to request this de-lousing service, remain quite still in the Posidonia meadow in an almost vertical position.

Brown Meagre (Sciaena umbra) –many of them being de-loused by isopods-
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

In the Cystoseira forest we once again find large concentrations of the invasive alga Lophocladia lallemandii. This is a worrying situation, as the alga is covering the whole area and the other flora and fauna are being buried under a foamy whitish-red cloud. Many Cystoseria species have decreased significantly in the Mediterranean, and this new intruder threatening its space could represent a heavy blow to these important forests.

Throughout the area there is a scattering of different corals, some of them colonial such as the Cladocora caespitosa and Polyciathus muelerae, and others solitary, such as Balanophyllia europaea.

On the walls, between the crannies and crevices, we find some dusky grouper (Epinephelus marginatus), brown meagre (Sciaena umbra) –many of them being de-loused by isopods- and numerous nudibranchs. The most common species are Flabellina affinis and Cratena peregrina. We catch some of them laying eggs in flagranti, while others are feeding on the polyps of a hydrozoa (Eudendrium sp.).

10th September 2006

Els Freus Marine Reserve: La Plataforma and Gastabi island

Ricardo Aguilar

Mediterranean cleaner shrimps (Lysmata seticaudata) are cleaning a Mediterranean moray (Muraena helena)
© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

The condition of the sea continues to be perfect for our work. In the morning we had arranged to meet the people from the Marine Reserve, who are helping us to locate dive zones. We will be starting with a sandy sea bed with a few thickets of Posidonia oceanica where a metal structure has sunk which is being covered by native flora and fauna. This is a regular haunt of yellowmouth barracuda (Sphyraena viridensis) and dusky grouper (Epinephelus marginatus).

In the afternoon we concentrate on a large meadow of Posidonia oceanica which finishes next to a rocky area so we can take samples of both environments. Among the rocks, a shoal of Mediterranean cleaner shrimps (Lysmata seticaudata) are cleaning a Mediterranean moray (Muraena helena). As part of the meadow is growing from a rocky sea bottom, in some areas you can find a variety of big sea sponges, Ircinia fasciculate, or of the Cacospongia and Sarcotragus genus.

9th september 2006

East of Ibiza: La Llosa de Santa Eulalia and Llado del Sur

Ricardo Aguilar

© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

Today is the start of the final part of this year’s expedition. We’re going to be taking samples from the sea beds around the Balearic Islands using divers, a robot submarine and dredging to classify the different biological communities in the area. During the first few days we’ll be diving between Ibiza and Formentera, and later on we’ll be heading for to Majorca and Minorca.

There have been a few changes to the crew and the team, so initially we’re going to take it slowly until all of us are coordinating well and have a good working dynamic. Off the east of Ibiza we’re going to be studying some shallow rocky sea beds in search of places with photophile algae.

© OCEANA / Carlos Suárez

The water temperature here is very high, in addition to which the thermocline goes very deep. The temperatures do not go below 25 ºC until the bottom, which here is 25 metres. The fish species found here are typically Mediterranean, including damselfish (Chromis chromis), ornate wrasse (Thalassoma pavo), rainbow wrasse (Coris julis), painted combers (Serranus scriba), combers (Serranus cabrilla), etc., and in the more pelagic areas big shoals of young fish are attacked by groups of yellowmouth barracuda (Sphyraena viridensis) and bonitos (Sarda sarda), but the sea bed is thickly covered by an invasive red algae (Lophocladia lallemandii) which means the native algae of this region are barely visible, such as Dictyota dichotoma and Padina pavonica: the red algae is a real plague. There is also a small meadow of Posidonia oceanica which has accumulated quite a lot of mucilage.

The overall impression is worrying. On the one hand, most of the algae is discoloured and seems to be being affected by the high water temperatures. On the other, the huge spread of this invasive alga definitely represents a threat to the area’s ecosystem.

22nd August 2006

In the port of Nador (Morocco)

M. José Cornax

© OCEANA / Juan Cuetos

This morning, Juan Cuetos and I crossed into Morocco through the Melilla border in order to inspect the Nador fishing port in search of drift netters.

The "entrance to Europe" has a unique smell. A huge fence separates two worlds, Africa and Europe. We make our way through the noisy crowd that moves in all directions, carrying packages, tires, refrigerators… Cars blowing their horns, military personnel, policemen, everyone pushing and shoving. This is not the first time I cross into Morocco, but I think I will never get used to this, nor to the fact that the world changes so abruptly only a few meters away from No Man's Land. We crossed as fast as customs bureaucracy would allow us and we made our way to the port.

The port of Nador is huge. Upon entering, we spotted the fish market and a large number of moored trawlers, probably due to the adverse meteorological conditions. The activity on the docks is frenetic, fishermen repairing nets that are completely laid out on the floor, fish being transported, motors…

© OCEANA / Juan Cuetos

The truth is that tourists do not usually enter the port area, but there we are, pretending to admire the beautiful industrial scenery and taking photos of each other, innocently thinking that we would not be in the least suspicious, when in reality, all eyes were focused on us.

As we reached the last docks in the port, we found large quantities of drift nets unfolded between two esplanades, large piles of them on the lengths of the docks… and the netters with their crews. Juan was practically boarding the ships when we looked at the names and license numbers of the netters, El Farsioui, Zidni… These were the same vessels that we documented a few nights before as they carried out their fishing activity. We backed up a bit and Juan took a few panoramic shots, careful not to raise any suspicions. We moved on, counting the number of netters and observing how the fishermen repaired the drift nets.

At one point, someone approached us and spoke a few words, and among other things, he told us that perhaps our camera would be stolen. As we realised this person was familiar with the fishermen, we took the advice and Juan decided to stop taking photos conspicuously, and although the camera hung around his neck, his hand kept pressing the button.

© OCEANA / Juan Cuetos

When another person came to speak to us, a crew member from the mako fleet, he approached us and asked: "Are you taking pictures of the boats?" We decided it was time to leave. We had the photos, as well as estimates of the number of nets and the number of ships we observed, so as soon as we got rid of our mako fisherman friend, who accompanied us to the port exit, we headed towards the border.

Once again, we have verified that the nets are still present, at port as well as at sea, in spite of international agreements and legislation, capturing protected species or simply uselessly killing species that are accidentally captured, and in such rich ecosystems with such special characteristics as the Alboran Sea.

The key to eliminating the Moroccan drift netter fleet lies in the fisheries agreements the EU has signed with Morocco.

14th August 2006

Conchi de Pedro

And at last that is how the Ranger's port engine roared once again, with a little piece of the Toftevaag, the Alnitak project ship; yes, you read correctly, one of our clutch discs was damaged and we were desperately trying to locate a machinist who could make one for us or a workshop that could help us solve the problem, and during a visit from Ricardo Sagarminaga, from the Spanish Association of Cetaceans (SEC), owner of the Toftevaag, while we were discussing the problem, he realised he had an engine very similar to ours put away and that maybe we could try to take the part we needed from there; no sooner said than done. Thank you so much Ricardo!!! A clutch disc transplant between two ships dedicated to marine conservation put the Ranger back in action, in less than 24 hours.

You will not believe this…but when Captain Jordi decided to warm up the engines in order to begin our work again, the alarms went off, and we didn't realise what had happened until Carlos discovered the problem…the oil level indicator was at 0. They opened the engine room and there it was! An oil line had broken and there was engine oil all over the room, right up to the bilge.

© OCEANA / Conchi de Pedro

They quickly called Paco, the mechanic, and in just a few minutes the line was changed. The Ranger set sail, with its injuries healed, towards the Seco de los Olivos once again, with two exceptional guests aboard, Ana and Cristina, who came to experience, first hand, the strange sensation of viewing the submarine world thanks to the ROV. The slopes of the Seco de los Olivos fall to over 200 meters depth, but there are still a few rocky areas as you reach the top that harbour some "coral and gorgonia forests."At the top we also spotted many marine sponges on the seafloor, and we had the opportunity to see some species that inhabit the spaces between the sand and the rocks: Lobsters, Apron rays, Streaked gurnards, Anglerfish, Sea urchins…even a group of Pipefish. There were also various types of Gorgonias depending on the area: there were Whip Gorgonias (very amusing) and other more frequent types like the Tree Gorgonia along with other related species.

Thanks to the ROV's zoom lens (more precision at larger scales) we saw ascideans, skeleton shrimp and anemones incrusted in the rocks.

Before leaving the Seco, we immersed the CTD (a probe which allows us to measure levels of oxygen, salinity, temperature, chlorophyll…) to 120 meters depth in order to study the profile of this body of water. The results showed us that the surface layers were very hot, at more than 25 ºC, the thermocl